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Katherine River Information
Katherine River
EVEN its greatest fans wouldn't call Katherine a bustling centre of bright lights and hyper-activity.
Katherine Gorge National Park
But behind that big, wide and often empty main street, there's a feast of things to do if you can only tune your senses to observe the pace and nuances of its outback location. Often this will involve getting in a car or tour bus and putting on your sunblock.
The town has only 11,500 residents and is 340km from Darwin and 1200km from Alice Springs, so day trips require a long drive or, more likely, a light aircraft or helicopter ride. But it is a fabulous base from which to study the Aboriginal and European history of northern Australia and see some incredible country and wildlife.
The dry season from April to October is the most popular with tourists, but the wet also has fans.
Morning
Katherine is where the traditional lands of the Jawoyan, Walpiri, Dagaman and Wardiman peoples converge, and the Katherine River and Gorge have always been important meeting places. They are a must-see.
As its name indicates, Heli-Muster NT is a cattle-mustering company. But it also takes bookings for scenic flights any time between dawn and dusk over Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park and Arnhem Land.
Flights can range from 10 to 40 minutes. The Ranger's Office at Katherine Gorge opens at 7am, so get there early to collect trail maps. Take a walk before joining the first boat tour of the Gorge at 9am for two hours.
Dedicated twitchers have been flocking to the Territory for decades, but newcomers can soon find themselves hooked. I saw my first Gouldian Finch recently at Victoria River Downs and, although these exquisitely-coloured tiny birds are now extremely rare, you have a good chance of spotting them around some unlikely spots in Katherine.
Mike Reed's book, Birdwatching Kakadu Katherine Kununura, lists the places, times of day and seasons in which you are most likely to see species.
Day-tripping
Gold was discovered by Overland Telegraph Line construction workers at Pine Creek, 90km north of Katherine, and some of the original 19th century buildings that went up during the ensuing gold rush are still standing. The town has two National Trust sites, Pine Creek Museum and Pine Creek Railway Precinct.
Lunch
Meet local characters at the Pine Creek Pub before eating next door at Maysie's Cafe. Decor is inspired by 1950s American diners, with walls adorned with classic Hollywood glamour shots. Try the mango smoothies.
Afternoon
Spend some time around Katherine township, where the National Trust operates the Katherine Railway Precinct and the O'Keeffe Residence, a rare example of bush home-building ingenuity and one of the few surviving original dwellings in Katherine. The Knotts Crossing precinct is the site of the original Katherine township. Springvale Homestead is managed by the National Trust and gives a great insight into the pioneer days.
There are also plenty of galleries selling Aboriginal art, including contemporary and historical pieces. Geology buffs will want to visit NT Rare Rocks for unusual gemstones, ore specimens and other local rocks.
Book afternoon tea with mango farmers Peter Deans and Julie Philpin under the tamarind tree in their garden at Donkey Camp, 10km out of town.
Ask for neighbour Mike Reed to take you for a birdwatching walk to the river almost at the bottom of their garden. Julie and Peter can also prepare an evening meal for you using local produce, or organise for a neighbour to cook a bush camp oven dinner.
Evening
There are several restaurants, clubs and hotels serving a variety of cuisines. Or arrive at 6pm sharp for Markies Camp Tucker Night dinners in the grounds of the Katherine Museum.
More information: NT Holidays Ph: 13 61 10. Web: www.ntholidays.com.au
Katherine Region Tourist Association, phone 1800 653 142. Web: www.krta.com.au
Book Donkey Camp B&B tours and meals (08) 8972 1986; e-mail donkeycamp@hotmail.com
The Sunday Mail (Qld)
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